We sit at night and gaze at skies so big and so clear that we feel we can reach out and touch the stars.
We walk in rainforest so primeval it steams with potential dinosaurs and grows the same plants that were around in dinosaur times.
We ponder the paradoxes of the world's largest sand island, where lush subtropical rainforests grow in the dunes.
Huge fresh water lakes perch high above the water table in the tops of dunes. Sand pit culture of the under fives teaches that if you pour water on sand it will immediately drain away.
Why then, in a country that has had almost perpetual drought, does water sit in lakes on the tops of sand dunes? Just another mystery of Fraser Island we puzzle over as we swim in water so clear we seem to be flying over the white sandy lake bed.
This World Heritage listed wonder lies at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, just a 45-minute boat ride from Hervey Bay on Australia's east coast and a three-hour drive north of Queensland's capital of Brisbane.
Fraser Island has over 100 freshwater lakes home to fresh water turtles and tiny fish. Some are blue in stark contrast to their white sandy shores, others are tannin stained and reedy and surrounded in by forest. Lake Wabby is deep green and is slowly being swallowed by a sand blow two kilometres long.
Massive sand blows move across the island from east to west while pristine fresh water streams flow swiftly and silently through rain forest and out to the sea.
But this island's isolated beauty spots are on no super tourist highway. To access its unique natural attractions we have to travel by 4WD over sand tracks at a rate of about 20km per hour. There are day tour options from Kingfisher Bay resort and then mainland or you can hire a 4WD from the resort. We've opted to stay for a few days and really explore the place.
Access to Fraser Island is easy. The gateway to the island is Kingfisher Bay Resort, an eco resort that sends us out to explore the island and pampers us after a hard day's sightseeing. (Sitting in the spa sipping champagne and watching the sun set is heaven after the hell of climbing up the side of a sand blow!)
We are met by resort staff at Hervey Bay Airport and taken to catch a ferry to Fraser Island. Our bags go straight from the plane to our room.
Cruising across the Great Sandy Strait for 50 minutes we are advised to keep an eye out for dolphins and turtles and, from August to October, humpback and minke whales! The resort conducts whale-watching tours with the resident marine biologist in these
From the water the island stretches as far as the eye can see (it is 75 miles long) and it is difficult to realise that the rolling hills (over 700 foot in height), covered in eucalypt and rainforest, are all sand dunes.
As the boat nears a long jetty, Kingfisher Bay Resort is just visible through the trees that fringe its beach. The modern Australian-style wooden buildings with curving roofs have been built in an amphitheatre overlooking the bay and merge with the resort's natural environment.
The resort is surrounded by a wealth of plant and animals. Within a few minutes walk of our hotel room rare acid frogs, bats and sugar gliders can be seen at night. We go spotlighting with a ranger.
In the morning, with binoculars supplied, we join another ranger on a bird watching expedition. There are 354 species of bird, which live on or visit the island, including migratory waders, large colourful parrots and honeyeaters.
The famous Fraser Island satinay trees (taken to line the banks of the Suez canal - logging stopped in 1992) grow in amongst heaths, including the Wide Bay boronia, which is only found this area.
We learn there is a year-round, bountiful supply of plants providing bush tucker, natural medicines and beautiful wildflowers.
We numb our mouths with primitive pain killers and revive them by drinking tea made from lemon scented tea tree leaves plucked from the proliferation of bush by our ranger.
A freshwater creek spills into the ocean close to the resort and is edged by five mangrove species. Sea eagles, ospreys, fish and crabs are found among the mangroves.
Australia's purest breed of dingo roams the island. We see footprints along the beach and then the dog itself hunting around the lagoons that ring the resort.
The resort employs a private ranger staff of 22. They include marine biologists, botanists, anthropologists, zoologists and former National Parks and Wildlife Service employees.
These rangers guide guests through the contrasting landscapes of lush rainforest, huge slow moving sand blows, endless beaches, shipwrecks, crystal-clear lakes, fast flowing streams and spectacular cliffs of coloured sands.
Each day a range of free activities is offered by rangers including guided walks, night spotlighting, stargazing, bird watching and Australian bush tucker walks. For children there is a junior ranger program on weekends and school holidays.
We take a full-day, ranger-guided eco-tour looking to reacquaint ourselves with the cultural and natural heritage of the island (Fraser Explorer one and two day tours also run from the mainland if you don't have the time to stay over).
We learn about the Aboriginal heritage - the sources of bush tucker, the lifestyle, myths and legends and hear the tall tales and true of the timber logging days.
We drive along Seventy-Five Mile Beach, an ocean beach that is a designated road and all road rules apply.
The beach is busy with four-wheel-drives, campers, tour buses and people fishing - a strong contrast from the tranquility of Kingfisher Bay and the deserted beaches on the western side of the island.
There are some extra rules for driving on this beach like giving way to planes landing. Six-seater planes land and take off from the beach taking visitors for joy flights over the lakes and sand blows.
We stop to swim in Eli Creek where fresh water pours out to sea from an inland spring at the rate of nearly 80 million gallons a day. It's fresh and cold and we float quickly to the beach.
We see one of the many wrecks around the island. The Maheno was a luxury cruise ship, which washed up on the beach in 1935 and is slowing rusting into the sand.
At the Pinnacles we marvel at the spires of coloured sands in every shade of yellow and red. These cliffs were formed from dust blown from the central dessert of Australia 800,000 years ago and the iron in the clay has formed and iron oxide coating around the sand grains.
After lunch at Eurong Beach we go off the beach to Central Station, a former logging township and walk through the rainforest, which borders Wanggoolba Creek. Here we see King Ferns growing in the creek bed. They are believed to have evolved 320 million years ago and are extremely rare and endangered.
Then on to Lake McKenzie, a beautiful blue lake perched high in the whites sands of a dune and fringed by eucalypt forest.
This is a big day out but well worth it for the sights and the information we have gained. We note the places we want to come back to and seek information from the rangers on other places.
Then we hire a 4WD and explore the island on our own.
Fraser Island is famous for its 4WD sand tracks and the resort has a 4WD training video to help ensure newcomers to the island enjoy the splendors without suffering any of the potential pitfalls.
There are plenty of places to explore just walking from the resort and many walks have explanatory signs along the way. More adventurous, and longer, walks are organised by the rangers and we spend a half day walking first along the beach, then through the forest for a swim in magnificent Lake McKenzie.
Multi-award-winning Kingfisher Bay is built to strict environmental guidelines offering all the amenities of a modern resort while blending harmoniously with the island's sensitive ecological system.
The resort has a 152-room hotel and 109 self-contained villas, which sleep from four to eight people. All have large private decks overlooking sea, bush or lakes. The rooms are well appointed with refrigerators, tea and coffee making facilities, TV, air-conditioning, ISD telephones and irons. Many have spas in the bathrooms.
There are four swimming pools and a spa, bars, restaurants, shopping village, a fishing school, tennis courts, conference facilities and 4WD hire. Temperatures average 84F in summer and 72F in winter.
The restaurants cater for every mood and there are prices to suit every budget, great pizza and salad at the Sand Bar, romantic fine dining in Seabelle and fabulous buffet spreads in Maheno, which showcase the best of Australian foods. The cafe in the shopping village kept us supplied with sandwiches and pastries for picnics.
Kingfisher Bay is nestled into a natural amphitheatre overlooking the protected waters of the Great Sandy Strait, where you can swim, fish, canoe or sail.
There is a fishing guide, who will make sure you catch fish of the correct size and keep only what chef can cook for you to eat. Fishing clinics and fishing trips are run daily.
The resort provides visitors with the opportunity to experience the heritage values of Fraser Island and the Great Sandy Strait on nature's terms. There is so much to see and do on this amazing island and we have already extended our stay.
We leave knowing we must return. There are over 100 lakes on the island and we have explored four. We have swum in one fresh water creek, canoed on another and followed one through a rainforest; there are over 100 more to enjoy - next time!
For more information call the Fraser Island specialists on 1800 FRASER.
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Level 13, 410 Queen Street,
Brisbane, Queensland 4000.